how much are new kitchen cabinets

New Kitchen Cabinet Costs: Prices, Factors & Budget Tips

Figuring out how much are new kitchen cabinets feels like chasing a moving target because every showroom quotes a different baseline. You'll see per-linear-foot numbers that exclude hardware, installation, and the trim pieces that make a kitchen look finished. The real cost lives in the choices you make before the first box ships.

Let's walk through the decision tree so you land on a number you can trust.

A typical 10×10 kitchen runs 20 to 25 linear feet of cabinetry. NKBA guidelines require at least 36 inches of clearance between runs and 15 inches of landing space beside appliances. Those minimums drive the cabinet count before you pick a single door style.

Here's how the tiers, materials, and hidden line items stack up.

Quick Answer

New kitchen cabinets cost $8,000 to $75,000 total installed. Stock cabinets run $100 to $300 per linear foot for boxes only. Semi-custom ranges $200 to $550 per linear foot.

Full custom starts at $500 per linear foot and climbs past $1,200. Installation adds $70 to $150 per linear foot depending on region and complexity.

How Much Should You Really Spend on a New Kitchen? via Mark Tobin Kitchen Design

Why Cabinet Pricing Feels Impossible to Pin Down

Retailers love the linear-foot metric because it sounds precise. It isn't. A $200-per-foot quote might cover particleboard boxes with partial-overlay doors and no soft-close hardware.

The same footprint in plywood with full-overlay shaker doors and undermount soft-close drawers pushes $450 per foot before install. The variable isn't the kitchen size. It's the specification sheet.

Three structural choices lock in 80 percent of your final price. Box construction (framed vs frameless), material (plywood vs furniture board vs MDF), and drawer hardware (side-mount vs undermount soft-close) each move the needle independently. A frameless plywood box with undermount drawers costs more than a framed particleboard box with epoxy slides even if the door style is identical.

Most showroom quotes show the door price and bury the box spec in fine print.

Lead times follow the same logic. Stock cabinets ship in one to three weeks. Semi-custom runs six to ten weeks.

Custom orders stretch twelve to twenty weeks as of 2026. If your contractor has the demo scheduled for next month, your tier choice just got made for you.

how much are new kitchen cabinets

The Real Numbers: What You'll Actually Pay by Tier

Tier Box Cost / Linear Ft Install / Linear Ft Typical 10×10 Total Lead Time
Stock $100–$300 $70–$120 $8,000–$18,000 1–3 weeks
Semi-Custom $200–$550 $90–$140 $15,000–$35,000 6–10 weeks
Custom $500–$1,200+ $120–$150+ $30,000–$75,000+ 12–20+ weeks

Stock cabinets come in three-inch width increments with fixed heights (30, 36, 42 inches for uppers). You get what the catalog lists: usually furniture board boxes, partial-overlay doors, and side-mount drawer slides. Upgrades exist but erode the price advantage fast.

Big-box stores carry brands like Hampton Bay and KraftMaid's stock lines. Local dealers often stock Merillat or Schrock for faster turns.

Semi-custom opens the spec sheet. You can shift cabinet widths in 1/16-inch increments, specify plywood boxes, choose full-overlay or inset doors, and add factory-installed organizers (pull-out trays, spice racks, trash bins). Finish options expand from six paints to twenty-plus with glazing and distressing.

Brands like KraftMaid, Wellborn, and Crystal live here. The sweet spot for most owner-occupied remodels.

Custom means no catalog. A cabinetmaker builds to your field measurements, any species, any detail, integrated appliance panels, matched-veneer end panels, and hand-applied finishes. You pay for engineering time, not just materials.

This tier makes sense when the layout has odd angles, you need furniture-grade interior details, or the kitchen anchors a historic renovation.

stock semi-custom custom cabinet tiers

The Five Variables That Move the Needle Most

Box material drives durability and screw-holding power. Plywood (typically 1/2- or 3/4-inch, 7-ply birch or maple) resists sag under stone countertops and holds fasteners through decades of door cycles. Furniture board (thermally fused laminate on particleboard) costs 15, 25 percent less but swells if water reaches the core.

MDF machines cleanly for painted doors but weighs more and fails fast at sink bases. KCMA certification tests all three for cycle life, shelf load, and finish adhesion.

Construction method changes usable interior width. Framed (face-frame) cabinets add a 1.5-inch rail around the box opening, reducing drawer width by roughly 3 inches per cabinet. Frameless (European) boxes expose the full interior, a 15-inch cabinet yields a 13.5-inch drawer box vs 10.5 inches framed.

Frameless also demands tighter install tolerances; walls must be plumb within 1/8 inch over 8 feet.

Drawer hardware is where daily feel lives. Epoxy-coated side mounts ($5, $8 per drawer) bind after two years of heavy pots. Ball-bearing side mounts ($12, $18) glide better but still deflect under 50-pound loads.

Undermount soft-close ($25, $40) supports 75, 100 pounds, self-closes silently, and adjusts in three dimensions. The upcharge per drawer is real. The warranty difference is longer.

Door overlay affects both aesthetics and access. Partial overlay (1/2-inch reveal) shows the face frame, costs less, and works with cheaper hinges. Full overlay hides the frame, looks contemporary, and requires 165-degree hinges for adjacent doors.

Inset doors sit flush inside the frame, the cleanest look, the tightest tolerances, the highest labor cost. Each step up adds 10, 20 percent to door pricing.

Finish system determines touch-up reality. Factory-catalyzed conversion varnish (standard on semi-custom and custom) resists alcohol, heat, and moisture for 15+ years. Water-based urethane (common on stock) chips easier but touches up with a brush.

Thermofoil (vinyl wrap on MDF) cannot be repaired, delamination means door replacement. Stain-grade woods (maple, cherry, walnut) carry a 20, 30 percent material premium over paint-grade (poplar, MDF, hybrid).

cabinet box materials plywood particleboard

Decision Branch: Stock Cabinets — Speed and Savings

Choose stock if your timeline is under six weeks, the layout fits standard 3-inch modules, and you accept furniture-board boxes. The math works for rental flips, secondary suites, and budget remodels where the countertop gets laminate or butcher block. You'll save $5,000, $10,000 versus semi-custom on a 10×10 kitchen.

Watch the upgrade trap. Adding plywood boxes (+15%), soft-close drawers (+$12/drawer), and a premium paint (+20%) pushes a $12,000 stock order to $18,000, semi-custom territory with fewer sizing options. If you need more than two modifications per cabinet, stop.

You've outgrown the tier.

Installation is DIY-feasible for handy homeowners. Pre-assembled stock boxes weigh 40, 60 pounds each. RTA (ready-to-assemble) flat-packs save freight but demand a pocket-hole jig, clamps, and a flat surface.

Either way, plan one full day per 10 linear feet for a two-person crew. Shim, level, screw, repeat. The terms of service for most big-box installs require you to handle demo and disposal separately.

Return policies vary. Home Depot and Lowe's accept unopened stock returns within 90 days. Special-order colors and assembled units are final sale.

Measure twice. Order once.

Decision Branch: Semi-Custom — The Sweet Spot for Most Remodels

This tier solves the "almost fits" problem. Your 13.5-inch spice pull-out, 33-inch sink base, and 39-inch upper to meet a soffit all ship from the same factory with the same finish. No field modifications.

No filler strips wider than 3 inches. The dealer's designer catches clearance conflicts (dishwasher door vs cabinet, range hood vs upper) before the order locks.

Plywood boxes are standard on mid-tier lines (KraftMaid Vantage, Wellborn Select, Crystal Custom). Upgrade to all-plywood construction (+$0 per linear foot on some brands) and you've future-proofed against sink leaks. Factory-installed organizers, tiered cutlery trays, pull-out trash, appliance garages, cost 30, 50 percent less than aftermarket inserts and align perfectly.

Finish matching matters. Semi-custom brands hold dye lots across runs. If you add a pantry cabinet six months later, the white paint matches.

Stock brands rotate SKUs quarterly. Custom shops hand-match every order. That continuity has resale value.

Lead time is the trade-off. Six to ten weeks means you order before demo starts. Coordinate with your countertop templator, they need the cabinets set and leveled before they measure.

A two-week slip on cabinets cascades into a month-long project delay. The privacy policy on most dealer sites covers your design data, but confirm they don't share specs with third-party marketing lists.

Decision Branch: Full Custom — When Only Exact Fits

Custom cabinets answer problems no catalog solves. A 142-inch soffit run with integrated LED channels. A curved island radius that matches the dining table.

Appliance panels cut from the same flitch as the doors. You pay for engineering hours first, materials second. A typical custom shop charges $150, $300 per design hour before a single sheet is cut.

The process starts with a field measure by the cabinetmaker, not a salesperson. They scribe to your walls, verify floor level, and document every pipe chase. You approve shop drawings with exploded views, hardware schedules, and finish samples.

Changes after sign-off incur change-order fees at shop rate. That discipline keeps the timeline honest.

Material options are unlimited. Rift-sawn white oak, quarter-sawn walnut, reclaimed heart pine, FSC-certified bamboo. Interior components match the species, no melamine shelves inside cherry boxes.

Dovetail drawers, inset doors, hand-rubbed oil finishes, integrated lighting channels. The spec sheet is whatever you draw.

Lead time is the real filter. Twelve to twenty weeks minimum. Complex projects with multiple finishes or imported hardware push six months.

You need temporary kitchen plans. Storage for appliances. Patience.

Custom only makes sense when the layout demands it and the budget absorbs the timeline.

Resale value is strong in luxury markets. Appraisers recognize custom millwork as a permanent improvement. In starter neighborhoods the money rarely returns.

Match the tier to the ZIP code.

The Line Items Everyone Forgets: Install, Trim, and Hidden Extras

The cabinet invoice is never the final number. Installation labor runs $70, $150 per linear foot depending on region and complexity. Northeast and West Coast metros sit at the top.

Rural areas with fewer installers often pay travel surcharges. A 25-linear-foot kitchen means $1,750, $3,750 in pure labor before trim.

Trim package adds up fast. Crown molding ($8, $25 per linear foot installed), light rail ($6, $18), toe kick ($4, $12), scribe panels ($45, $120 each), filler strips ($15, $40), and end panels ($80, $300) can total $2,000, $5,000. Stock cabinets need more fillers.

Custom cabinets need more crown detail. Either way the line items appear.

Demolition and disposal run $500, $1,500 for a 10×10 kitchen. Haul-away fees vary by municipality. Some recyclers take cabinet boxes free if you separate metal hardware.

Countertop coordination is critical. The fabricator templates after cabinets are set and leveled. A two-week cabinet delay becomes a four-week countertop delay.

Book the templator before you order cabinets.

Electrical and plumbing rough-ins must align with the new layout. Moving a gas line $300, $800. Adding under-cabinet lighting circuits $150, $400 per run.

GFCI upgrades per code $80, $150 per outlet. These trades run before cabinets install. Sequence matters.

Permit fees apply if you move walls, change gas, or alter electrical circuits. Most cosmetic cabinet swaps skip permits. Check your local building department.

The disclaimer on dealer quotes often excludes permit responsibility.

How to Get a Quote You Can Trust (Not a "Per Linear Foot" Guess)

Never accept a verbal estimate. Demand a line-item quote with every SKU, finish code, hardware model, and accessory listed. The quote should show: box material and construction, door style and overlay, hinge and slide part numbers, finish name and sheen, every organizer insert, every trim piece with linear footage, delivery charges, and install scope (level, shim, scribe, hardware adjust, cleanup).

Ask for the "as-built" field measure drawing. A dealer who quotes from your rough sketch will miss the ¾-inch pipe chase behind the sink base. The measure visit costs $150, $300 but gets credited on order.

Independent designers charge $150/hour. Dealer designers are free but work for the brand. Both catch errors before they ship.

Compare apples to apples. If Quote A specifies ¾-inch plywood boxes with undermount soft-close and Quote B says "premium construction" with no part numbers, they are not comparable. Request the KCMA certification label for each line.

Manufacturers publish spec sheets. Match the part numbers.

Get the lead time in writing with a "ship date" not a "week of" promise. Ask for the penalty clause if the factory slips. Most dealers won't sign penalties but the conversation reveals confidence.

A 10-week quote that becomes 14 weeks derails your whole project.

Payment schedule should protect you. Standard: 50% deposit, 40% at delivery, 10% at final walk. Never pay 100% before install.

The contact page for reputable dealers lists a physical showroom address. Verify it exists.

Common Traps That Inflate the Final Bill

The "linear foot" bait. A showroom advertises $199 per linear foot. The fine print: particleboard boxes, partial overlay, epoxy slides, no crown, no fillers, no install. Your real spec hits $425 per foot.

Always ask "what's excluded" before you compare.

The dye lot gamble. Ordering an extra base cabinet three months later because you forgot the warming drawer. Stock brands rotate finishes quarterly. The new cabinet won't match.

Order 5, 10% extra upfront or accept a visible mismatch.

The appliance spec change. You quoted for a 30-inch freestanding range. You buy a 36-inch pro range with a 6-inch deeper cabinet requirement. The sink base shifts.

The uppers shift. The crown returns change. Lock appliance models before cabinet order.

Cut sheets only.

The "we'll fix it in install" promise. Gaps wider than ¼ inch, walls out of plumb >½ inch over 8 feet, floors sloping >¼ inch per foot. These need prep work before cabinets arrive. Shims hide sins but stress joints.

A good installer walks the site before quoting. A bad one surprises you on day one.

The accessory upsell. Factory pull-out trays cost $120, $180 each. Aftermarket Rev-A-Shelf equivalents run $60, $100. But aftermarket requires field drilling and rarely aligns perfectly.

Factory installs are cleaner. Do the math per cabinet.

The disposal surprise. Demo crew leaves cabinet boxes in the driveway. You pay $300 for a dumpster you didn't budget. Write "demo includes haul-away" in the contract.

Pro Moves That Save Thousands Without Cutting Corners

Mix tiers strategically. Run stock uppers (less visible, standard heights) with semi-custom bases (drawer upgrades, pull-outs, sink base plywood). Save $3,000, $5,000 on a 10×10 kitchen. The joint at the countertop hides the seam.

Paint-grade uppers, stain-grade lowers. Paint-grade poplar or MDF doors cost 20, 30% less than stain-grade maple or cherry. Upper cabinets take less abuse. Lower cabinets show grain beauty at eye level.

The transition at the hood or microwave shelf looks intentional.

Open shelving for one run. Replace a 12-foot upper run with three 4-foot floating shelves. Save $1,200, $2,500 in cabinets. Use the same species and finish for continuity.

Works best on non-cooking walls away from grease.

RTA plywood boxes, dealer doors. Buy plywood carcasses flat-pack ($60, $90 per box). Order custom doors and drawer fronts from a door-only shop ($40, $80 per square foot). Assemble boxes yourself.

Hire a pro for doors and install. Total savings 25, 35% versus full semi-custom.

Standardize hardware early. Pick one pull, one knob, one hinge finish for the whole kitchen. Volume pricing kicks in at 50 pieces. Mixed finishes add $3, $5 per piece and complicate the installer's day.

Schedule install for off-peak. January through March installer availability improves. Some shops offer 10% labor discounts to keep crews busy. Book the measure in November.

Order in December. Install in January.

Reuse the island base. If the footprint stays, keep the existing island cabinet box. Reface the sides, replace the doors, add new drawers. Save $1,500, $3,000.

Only works if the box is plywood and level.

Bundle countertop with cabinet dealer. Many dealers partner with fabricators for package pricing. You get single-point scheduling. The dealer coordinates template timing.

One warranty call if something shifts. The about page for established dealers lists their trade partners.

Your Decision Map: Match Your Situation to the Right Tier

Start with your timeline. If demo is scheduled within four weeks, stock is your only option. Six to ten weeks opens semi-custom.

Twelve-plus weeks unlocks custom. Lead time is the hardest constraint because it cannot be negotiated.

Next, set your budget ceiling. Stock installed $8K, $18K. Semi-custom $15K, $35K.

Custom $30K, $75K+. If your number sits between tiers, use the pro moves from the previous section to bridge the gap. Mixing tiers saves more than downgrading materials.

Then assess the layout. Standard 3-inch modules with 30/36/42-inch upper heights? Stock works.

One odd cabinet, a soffit, or a 33-inch sink base? Semi-custom handles it. Curved walls, integrated appliance panels, or furniture-grade interiors?

Custom earns its keep.

Finally, weigh ownership horizon. Flipping in two years, stock with neutral paint. Staying seven to ten years, semi-custom with plywood boxes and soft-close.

Forever home with historic bones, custom millwork matches the architecture. The tier should match the timeline.

kitchen cabinet decision guide

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the average cost to install kitchen cabinets per linear foot?

Installation runs $70, $150 per linear foot depending on region and complexity. Northeast and West Coast metros sit at the high end. Rural areas often add travel fees.

A 25-linear-foot kitchen means $1,750, $3,750 in labor.

How long does it take to get kitchen cabinets after ordering?

Stock cabinets ship in 1, 3 weeks. Semi-custom takes 6, 10 weeks. Custom orders require 12, 20+ weeks.

As of 2026, supply chains have stabilized but imported hardware still causes occasional delays.

Can I install kitchen cabinets myself to save money?

Yes, if you are handy and have a helper. Pre-assembled stock boxes weigh 40, 60 pounds each. RTA flat-packs need a pocket-hole jig and clamps.

Plan one full day per 10 linear feet for a two-person crew. Semi-custom and custom are best left to pros.

What cabinet material holds up best to moisture?

Plywood boxes resist swelling and hold screws through sink leaks. Furniture board fails fast when water reaches the core. MDF machines cleanly for painted doors but should never sit at a sink base.

KCMA certification tests all three for cycle life and moisture resistance.

Is it cheaper to reface or replace kitchen cabinets?

Refacing costs 40, 60% of full replacement if the existing boxes are sound plywood and the layout stays. It fails when boxes are particleboard, the layout changes, or you need more storage. New cabinets add warranty, modern hardware, and better organization.

What hidden costs surprise people most?

Trim package (crown, light rail, toe kick, fillers) adds $2,000, $5,000. Demo and disposal runs $500, $1,500. Countertop coordination delays add weeks.

Electrical and plumbing rough-ins for new layouts cost $300, $1,500. Permit fees apply if you move gas or electrical.

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